Sunday, June 20, 2010
Egg Curd With Morels & Fennel

Breakfast, after blood-testing the diabetic cat next door. Made from scratch (ie., not from a recipe) and delicious.

Unsalted butter in big pan. Low heat 'til the butter foams. Fennel bulb: very fine slices. The idea is to produce tiny matchsticks. Briskly whisk three eggs with a pinch of salt and combine with the fennel. Half a dozen morels, sliced into quarters. Into pan. Once the morels release their juice, add egg/fennel mixture. Stir, gently, until eggs obtain a curd-like consistency, about four minutes.

You could take this a lot of ways from here. I warmed a pita in the microwave, poured the curds on top, and added some chopped fennel fronds and fresh ground black pepper.

Reading: Cooking: The Quintessential Art, by Herve This and Pierre Gagnaire (California Studies in Food & Culture, 2008, trans. M.B. DeBevoise):

"Let us raise our sights, then, and try to create a new form of criticism appropriate to the talents of true culinary artists. Because we cannot avoid dealing with the question of 'beauty' -- a term that, in view of the difficulties it conceals, requires more quote marks than I have given it here -- we need to adapt aesthetic analysis to the subject at hand. Theories of beauty have been elaborated for painting, music, sculpture, and literature, which some deny is an art at all. Insofar as it concerns cooking, aesthetic theory is not so much backward as absent. . . ."

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